July 7, 2024
Yesterday we left the hotel at 8:30a and didn’t get back until 8p. A very enjoyable day learning about the history of Florence and exploring on our own, but a very long and hot day. And I didn’t do so well with hydration! And I also forgot to bring the backup battery so yesterday was a somewhat shorter blog post as I rationed phone use during the day!
It’s Sunday and we start a little bit later. I have breakfast at the hotel with Brian and Elaine. They’ve been to Florence before and took advantage of this return trip to visit Boboli Gardens for a view overlooking the city. Elaine is a painter collecting images for future inspiration. Brian is a photographer documenting their travels.
This first part of the trip is settling into a nice rhythm as we spend a day transferring to a city with a sightseeing stop on the way, and then spend a full day exploring the city.
Today is a transfer day. At 9a we board the bus and leave Florence to head towards Rome. We head south out of Florence on the E3S highway to the west of Siena passing the many farms and vineyards of the region.
Brad’s been working the past few days on an addition to the itinerary. We’re on the way to Orvieto in Italy’s Umbria region. It’s one of the hilltop towns in Italy. Access to the town is via funicular. The massive Duomo of Orvieto dominates the small town piazza.
We’ve got a couple of hours on our own to see the town and get some lunch. Michelle and I find a small cafe called FE3.0 on Via Gualverio Michelangeli, an alleyway deep into the town center. The gnocchi is spectacular!
Then we tour Pozzo della Cava, an underground archaeological complex in the medieval quarter of Orvieto featuring 30-meter deep well.
At 2:30p we’re back on the road for the 90-minute ride into Rome.
Rome … the Eternal City! With iconic locations like the Colosseum and Vatican City and neighborhoods teeming with markets, trattorias, and gelaterias, Rome is a city where the history of the Roman Empire, the Catholic Church, and contemporary urban living converge.
The bus drops us off fairly close to the Spanish Steps. We walk to the top, take photos, and walk back down. Then we walk over to the Trevi Fountain. It’s jammed packed with tourists but we join the scrum and luckily find a great spot at the edge of the fountain for more pictures. Next we walk over to the Pantheon for a quick look. Dinner is around the corner from the Pantheon at Il Barroccio. We enjoy Fettuccine Alfredo, salad, and Chicken Saltimbo with Corey and Hannah. This is Cory’s third trip with Brad and Hannah’s first. Tomorrow we see Vatican City and the Colosseum.
July 6, 2024
With iconic landmarks like the Duomo, the Uffizi Gallery, and Michelangelo’s David, Florence is a Renaissance gem distinguished for its art, architecture, and cultural heritage.
“No one has ever been able to decide if it was a miraculous coincidence or simply in the nature of the surrounding countryside that Dante, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Leonardo, Michelangelo, Galileo and so many other giants were all Florentines.”
Eve Borsook, The Companion Guide to Florence
A quick cab ride and we are in the Florence historic district by 9a. The morning features a walking tour of Florence to see Piazza della Signoria, Palazzo Vecchio, Chiesa di Santa Croce, Ponte Vecchio, Duomo, Gates of Paradise, Giotto’s Bell Tower, Dante’s House. We don’t get to Michelangelo’s David, but after reading about these places for so long it’s an incredible morning of sightseeing!
We’ve got free time in the afternoon to explore of our own. Michelle and I find Trattoria Enzo de Piero down an alley and stop for a glass of wine (or two!) and some appetizers for lunch.
Then we meet up with Greg, Kim, Sophie, Hugh, and Mallory for more shopping before stopping for happy hour at Museo Della Bistecca. Dinner is at Baldovino Bistrot. Tomorrow we head to Rome!
July 5, 2024
Breakfast is at the hotel. I’m not a breakfast person. At all. But I’m not complaining about starting the day with a fresh-baked croissant, a little fruit salad, and a few slices of absolutely amazing tomatoes!!
At 8a we check out and board the bus for the 90-minute ride to Verona as we make our way to Florence later this afternoon.
We’re in Verona for a few hours. Tourist busses have to park outside of the city so we get a lot of walking in to see Castelvecchio (the old fort), the Romeo and Juliet balcony at Casa di Giulietta from Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, and the Arena di Verona Roman amphitheater.
At 12p we’re back on the bus continuing on the way to Florence. I’ve written about this before, but I really don’t mind time on the bus. It’s a good time to download some pictures from the first part of the day, update my calendar with the places we visited, and a chance to work on the day’s blog post. And it’s a great chance just to look out the window and enjoy the passing countryside. I’m never bored on the bus. I’ve always got something to do. And I’m in a place I’ve never been before. I’m soaking it all in!
We stop for lunch at an Eataly x Autogrill and then we’re back on the road. But it’s a long haul to Florence with bumper to bumper traffic like it’s the Capital Beltway in DC. After a while the traffic eases and the terrain changes as we move from the coastal flatlands to the more mountainous area of Tuscany around Florence. The landscape is stunning and punctuated by many very long tunnels. I missed the landscape pic and settled for the tunnel instead.
We get to Florence a little after 5p. We check into our hotel, check out the local super market for supplies, and then make the walk to the historic center of Florence for dinner. Bianca says it’s a 10 minutes walk. It takes us 30 minutes!
Really, really hungry by the time we get to Ristorante Rubaconte. And the pizza dinner is incredible and well worth the walk. Also, Tiramisu!!
Tomorrow we explore Florence!
July 4, 2024
After a couple of days getting here, we begin our first full day of sightseeing. Breakfast is at the hotel at 7a, then we board a ferry to the islands that make up Venice.
Venice is famous for its network of canals, iconic gondolas, and architectural masterpieces like St. Mark’s Basilica and the Doge’s Palace. Its historic significance as a major maritime power is reflected in its palazzos and marketplaces. Venice’s blend of art, history, and culture makes it a captivating destination for travelers to visit.
We start on the Island for Murano for a glass-blowing demonstration at Ferris & Lazzarini.
Then we get back on the ferry to head over to San Marco and the heart of Venice to see the Doge’s Palace.
And see the Antonio Canaletto they have on display … one of my favorite painters!!
Next we take a gondola ride and experience the famous canals!
Back at the hotel for dinner I sit with Terry, Beth, and Patrick. This is the first time I’ve traveled with them and it’s great to get to know them early in the trip. Tomorrow we head to Verona and then to Florence!
July 3, 2024
On the bus from Milan to Venice …
The Boston Logan departure of British Airways Flight 212 was delayed a couple of hours on Tuesday evening but arrives at London Heathrow on Wednesday morning almost on time.
After a layover with just enough time to grab a cup of coffee we board British Airways Flight 574 to Milan Linate airport and arrive around 1:30p.
Although we’re just passing through, a few notes about Milan. The city is a global fashion capital and a hub for design and innovation. With significant historical landmarks such as the Milan Cathedral and Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, Milan is home to world-class museums and galleries. Milan plays a crucial role in the economy as Italy’s financial center, offering a dynamic blend of business opportunities, cultural experiences, and culinary delights.
We’re quickly through immigration and customs, meet Bianca, our Explorica tour guide, and board the bus for the several hour drive through the more industrialized part of the Italian countryside on the way to Venice.
Tomorrow we start the serious sightseeing with a day in Venice!!
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View from the balcony ...
Michael S. Liberman