On the train to Bharatpur …
Another early wake up call to start the day. It’s a transfer day as we leave Ranthambore and head to Agra. After breakfast at the hotel we’re at the Ranthambore train station by 6:45a for our 7a train. India is known for its vast and efficient rail system. We’re in an air conditioned car and the trip is smooth. As we roll through the arid countryside the train accommodations are comfortable, if not what we would find at home. We’re not only here to see landmarks and museums, but also to get a sense of daily life in India. This train trip does just that.
Arriving at the Bharatpur train station there are thousands of people arriving and departing, or just milling about. There are also many indigent children looking for a handout. And there are thieves and pickpockets. Unni guides us through the station and it’s an adventure.
We head to Fatehpur Sikri, an archaeological site consisting of a palace on a hilltop surrounded by a series of gardens. It’s a beautiful setting, but blazing hot 111 degrees in the midday sun. Lunch is at a roadside cafe called The Lounge. The food and service are better than the name and – always important – the restrooms are very clean.
After an hour drive to Agra we check in at the Crystal Sarovar Premiere hotel. We got a couple of hours before heading out for the evening, so I head to the rooftop pool and get my first glimpse of the Taj Mahal across the skyline. Even from a distance it is stunning.
Our evening outing is a visit to the ATM, a demonstration of marble inlaying, and a walk along the street to visit some shops in Agra. We’re back at the hotel by 8:30p for dinner. Tomorrow we visit a school in Agra.
Poolside at the Ranthambore Regency …
This safari day starts with traditional tea and biscuits at 5:30a. We’re on the road to Ranthambore National Park as the sun rises for a second safari day. After yesterday’s excitement of seeing four tigers, today’s goal is seeing the diverse range of wildlife in the park. When we get inside the park our naturalist guide, Irshad, heads for Zone 3. We see deer, antelope, an assortment of birds including peacocks and an owl, a crocodile, and monkeys. Early in the morning the temperatures are cool and the light is great for photos.
We get back to the Ranthambore Regency at 10a for breakfast. Tomorrow we take the train to Bharatpur as we make our way to Agra, but our suitcases are going separately so we don’t have to manage them on the train. That means time after breakfast to reconfigure our bags so we have what we need to tonight and tomorrow.
Next Unni takes us to a school for children with disabilities. The Star on the Earth Society school was established to take in children found on the streets or abandoned by their families. We meet the children in their classrooms. Then we gather in the school’s main room so the children can share songs and dances they have learned. We share a song as well, as Brad and Georgia lead us in a rendition of Somewhere Over the Rainbow. It’s amazing to see the work the teachers are doing at the school and heartening to know that they are receiving good care, but there are still many children in need.
On the way back to the hotel we stop at Village Women’s Crafts to see their textile and needlepoint work. These artisans were displaced when their villages were relocated when Ranthambore National Park was established as a tiger sanctuary in the early 1980s. The work is intricate and it takes months to complete a piece. It’s also another opportunity to shop!
We’re back at the hotel by 3p for a late lunch. The rest of the day is free time, so we enjoy time at the pool. A nice way to spend the afternoon after the early wake call for the dawn safari. Tomorrow we are up early again as we start making our way to the Taj Mahal.
On the bus to Ranthambore …
Our dinner last night was outdoors at a place called Marian Nina’s. We started with a tomato soup followed by chicken and cheese appetizers from the grill. Dinner was buffet style featuring Indian and western dishes. The entertainment was amazing with a puppet show, a traditional Indian dancer performing on broken glass, and a fire-eating drummer.
This morning we leave the Park Regis at 8a and head back to the Amber Palace. Unni has arranged for elephant rides for those who are interested. The elephants carry paying tourists from the base of the mountain up to the main square inside the Amber Palace. It’s hard work and the elephants are limited to a certain number of trips per day. This life of labor can’t be good for the elephants, but about half of us decide to ride up. Phylis and I make the trip together, taking in the view of the valley below while the hawkers shout from all sides trying the sell their wares. By now we are getting used to this chaos in India.
The bus leaves Jaipur heading northeast on the road to Ranthambore. Horn blaring, our bus driver skillfully weaves his way through the traffic. There are a surprising number of farm vehicles and motorcycles traveling the wrong way on the shoulder on our side of the road. As we move away from the mountains of Jaipur the terrain changes to flat farmlands, but we are on the way to the jungle. We leave the main highway onto the bumpiest stretch of road I’ve ever been on. Getting bounced around too much to type, so I’ll pick this up later today.
On the caravan in Ranthambore …
We’re speeding down the rocky and dusty roads though Ranthambore National Park. There’s a kill ahead and that means there are tigers to be seen. A tiger and her cubs are feasting on a deer and all vehicles in the park are rushing to see them.
We arrived in Ranthambore at 1:30p, were greeted with cool towel, a traditional marigold lei, and a glass of lemonade. We had lunch in our hotel and checked in at the Ranthambore Regency. At 3p we boarded our safari vehicle, met our driver and naturalist, and headed directly to the park.
Ranthambore National Park has been designated by the Indian government as a sanctuary for tigers and other wildlife. Although this is a jungle area of India, at this time of year the park is hot, dry, and parched. An hours drive into the park and we get to a mother, her two cubs, and remains of a very striped down deer carcass. We know the location because when we get to the area there are already 10 safari vehicles parked and observing the tigers. We spend about two hours rotating to the front of the cramped safari vehicle to get in the prime picture taking location. Mostly the tigers are at rest in the heat of the day, but eventually the mother moves towards a nearby creek for a drink of water and a cooling dip. This produces the days best pictures. Even though this is a tiger sanctuary, seeing tigers during a visit can be difficult and rare. Credit to our guides for making sure today was a success.
Back at the hotel we spend some refreshing time at the pool, have dinner, and meet in the bar to watch a video about tigers in the park. Tomorrow we have an early morning safari followed by a visit to a local home for children with disabilities.
Poolside at the Jaipur Park Regis …
Unni’s plan is that we start early to beat the day’s heat in Jaipur. After breakfast at the hotel we are on the road at 8a. First stop is the Amber Fort and the City Palace. The fort and palace are located on top of a mountain. Tourists used to ride elephants to the top, but for the safety and welfare of the elephants that practice has largely ended and we ride in jeeps up to the palace. We visit the gardens, interior rooms, tunnels, and the underground reservoir.
Next we stop at a textile shop to see printing on fabric and carpet making. It’s a good day for the members of this textile coop as a number of travelers purchase carpets.
We take a quick ride across town to visit the museums and royal residence of the City Palace complex. Then we stop at Heritage Spices for lunch. By lunchtime the temperature in Jaipur is 97 degrees.
Next another shopping stop at the Jewels and Gold Palace. By 4:30 we are exhausted and ready for some down time.
We head to the pool for a refreshing break. But we’re distracted by a parrot caught behind protective netting enclosing some balconies at the hotel. Mickey and Patty alert hotel staff and with a group of American travelers shouting encouragement, the parrot is released.
Tonight we’ve got a special dinner featuring Indian traditional dancing. And tomorrow we head to Ranthambore for the tiger safari.
On the bus to Jaipur …
Today is a transfer day to Jaipur. After breakfast at the hotel we board the bus for the 265 kilometer trip. As is usually the case in these trips, by the second day everyone has claimed a spot on the bus. We’re a small enough group that we can spread out. I like sitting in the back, so my seat is on the right side of the very back row. The back row is always a few inches higher than the rest of the bus so you get a little better view. The downside is that the back is the bumpiest part of the vehicle and I spend a fair amount of time getting jostled around. Today I’ve already hit my head on the ceiling while trying to shoot video out the back window. And my camera bag hit the deck after a particularly big bump. I had my camera in hand at the time so no damage done. Fitbit thinks the bumpy ride is me walking, so by the end of the trip I have 5,600 steps and 47 flights of steps.
Bus transfer days are some of my favorite parts of these trips. Away from the tourist destinations it’s a chance to sit back, see the countryside, and get a real sense of how people live and work. Highways filled with ornately decorated trucks, overloaded farm vehicles, passenger cars with horns blaring, and, of course, cows.
The photo ops on the bus are never good. But that doesn’t stop me from trying. The windows are always reflective so I use a circular polarizing filter to minimize the amount of me that shows up as I shoot out the window. The bumps make it difficult to hold the camera steady. Even though tourist bus speeds are limited for safety, you’ve got to have quick reactions to see a subject, frame the shot, and make the capture. I miss a lot, but it’s a great way to spend a half day bus ride.
We arrive at the Park Regis hotel in Jaipur, have lunch, and then check in. We’ve got some free time so I head to the hotel pool. Before dinner we have a yoga session in the atrium of the hotel and then dinner in the hotel restaurant. Tomorrow is an early start to avoid the heat of the day as we see the landmarks of Jaipur.
View from the balcony ...
Michael S. Liberman